If your basement is prone to flooding, learning how to put in a sump pump is a practical step to protect your home. In this guide, we walk you through the entire installation process from start to finish. While this task is manageable for many homeowners, some may prefer professional assistance – which is why MyTownPlumber offers expert sump pump installation services across the US.
1. Understanding Sump Pumps and Why You Need One
A sump pump removes accumulated water from a basement or crawlspace, preventing flooding and mold growth. According to the CDC, basements that flood require prompt cleaning to avoid health risks. Proper installation follows guidelines from the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO) to ensure safety and code compliance.
2. Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Before starting, gather the following items. Most can be found at local hardware stores or ordered online:
- Sump pump (pedestal or submersible – see table below)
- Pre-formed sump pit basin (typically 18–24 inches deep)
- Gravel (for pit base)
- Check valve (prevents water backflow)
- Schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings (discharge line)
- Pipe primer and cement
- Sump pump cover (to seal pit)
- GFCI-protected outlet or dedicated circuit
- Drill, shovel, level, tape measure
- Safety gear: gloves and goggles
3. Choosing the Right Sump Pump: Pedestal vs. Submersible
Select the pump type that fits your basement’s layout and water volume. Below is a comparison of the two most common styles:
| Feature | Pedestal Pump | Submersible Pump |
|---|---|---|
| Motor location | Above the pit (dry) | Inside the pit (submerged) |
| Noise level | Moderate to loud | Quiet |
| Lifespan | Typically 10+ years | 5–10 years |
| Ideal for | Smaller pits, lower water volumes | Large pits, heavy water flow |
| Cost range (typical US, varies by region) | $75 – $200 | $150 – $500 |
For most homes, a submersible pump provides better performance and quieter operation. A 1/3 to 1/2 horsepower pump suffices for average residential use. Consult the manufacturer’s specifications for your area’s expected water load – for example, Zoeller Pumps offers sizing guides based on pit depth and flow rate.
4. Step-by-Step Installation Process
Step 1: Choose and Prepare the Location
Select the lowest point in your basement, typically near where water accumulates. Mark a circle about 2 inches larger than the pit basin diameter. Ensure the area is clear of obstructions and the floor is solid.
Step 2: Dig the Pit
Use a sledgehammer and small jackhammer (or rented concrete saw) to cut through the floor. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the basin plus 2 inches of gravel at the bottom – aim for a total depth of 20–26 inches. Dispose of debris safely.
Step 3: Install the Pit and Gravel
Place 2 inches of clean gravel at the bottom of the hole. Set the sump pit basin into the hole, making sure it is level. Backfill around the basin with gravel to stabilize it. Do not pour concrete until later; leave the area accessible for plumbing connections.
Step 4: Place the Pump and Connect the Discharge Line
Lower the pump into the pit, ensuring it sits evenly on the gravel. Attach the discharge pipe (PVC) to the pump outlet. Run the pipe upward, through the pit cover, and out of the house – typically through a wall or up to a daylight exit. Use about 1/4 inch per foot slope to allow gravity drainage.
Step 5: Install the Check Valve
Cut the discharge pipe about 12 inches above the pump and install a check valve. This prevents water from flowing back into the pit when the pump stops. Always install it according to the valve’s direction arrow. Secure with pipe clamps and PVC cement.
Step 6: Wire the Pump (or Call an Electrician)
Sump pumps require a dedicated, GFCI-protected circuit. If you are comfortable with electrical work, connect the pump to the outlet using a proper grounding wire. Otherwise, hire a licensed electrician. Never use an extension cord. This is a critical safety step – faulty wiring can cause electrocution or fire.
Step 7: Test the System
Fill the pit with water from a bucket until the float switch activates the pump. Verify the pump turns on, discharges water quickly, and then shuts off. Check all connections for leaks. Repeat the test to ensure reliability.
5. Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced DIYers can miss key details. Here are pitfalls to watch for:
- Incorrect pit size: A pit that’s too small will cause rapid cycling, wearing out the pump.
- Missing check valve: Without it, water hammer and backflow can damage the pump.
- Poor discharge location: Never drain sump water close to your foundation; route it at least 10 feet away to a storm drain or dry well.
- Ignoring local codes: Many municipalities require permits and inspection. Check with your building department before starting.
- Neglecting backup power: A power outage during a storm can render your sump pump useless. Consider a battery backup or water-powered backup pump.
If you encounter any issues with drainage or pipes during installation, our team at MyTownPlumber can help with drain cleaning and pipe repair services.
6. Maintenance Tips for Longevity
To keep your sump pump operating for years:
- Test the pump every spring and fall (pour a couple of gallons of water into the pit).
- Clean the intake screen annually to prevent clogs.
- Check the check valve for proper operation.
- Inspect the discharge pipe for cracks or blockages.
- If you notice unusual noises or reduced flow, contact a professional. Also, consider scheduling leak detection to identify hidden water entry points.
Proper maintenance can extend your pump’s life from 5 to 10 years. Remember, a working sump pump is your first line of defense against basement flooding.
Written by MyTownPlumber Editorial Team
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